NO TENTS ON GRASS

Joseph, OR to Hells Canyon Overlook, to Hells Canyon Dam, ID, to Baker City, OR

Yes, a campground proclaimed, quite proudly I'll say, "NO TENTS ON THE GRASS" .  Apparently, camping on asphalt is desirable in the Hells Canyon on the Idaho side of the Snake River, but in Oregon the tree-huggers let me throw the tent anywhere I may please.  That was about 4 hours ago, so let me rewind to Joseph and 20 hours prior.

24 Hours Ago:  With the sun out and finally in charge, I stopped at the Embers Brewhouse along Main Street and delighted myself to the third best burger I've ever consumed. (No. 1 being at Woodsman's in Orono, Maine & No. 2 at Casa Naraja on Mississippi in Portland, OR).  The wait staff was very delightful as I ate solo-style and downed a baker's dozen cups of coffee.  With dinner finished, I took back to the road, hoping to make it to John Day, OR by evening.

23-22 Hours Ago:  The road leaving Joseph was spectacular and quite a roller coaster ride.  Directly out of town, I passed a tree tastefully decorated in used sneakers, then saw a myriad of deep red barns set before the towering mountains of the Eagle Cap Wilderness.  With the forest road to myself for the next two hours, I took my time heading south.  At Lake Fork, I watched a family of elk run through a field then saw an obese family display themselves stately in their lawn chairs before their oversized 5th-wheel. 

Departing the main road, I headed up to the Hells Canyon Overlook, hoping to get a better view than I was allowed at Buckhorn.  Once the fatties removed themselves from the vista, the view I took in was commanding.  In silence, I walked along the rim of the canyon absorbing the grandeur spread out before me.  With no clouds to hinder things, the Seven Devils Mountains could finally be seen miles away in Idaho and their 9,300' peaks marked the highest point in the canyon-roughtly 8,300 feet above the Snake River flowing directly below.

As the sun set, I pulled out of the overlook, but put the Wagon in reverse after a few yards when I spotted an excellent spot for the tent along a small stocked pond near the canyon's rim.  Three other 5th-wheels and travel trailers were sharing the area, but I found a place of perfect seclusion where their ways couldn't be heard.  The site included a half-built fire ring and the dry weather made starting a fire enjoyably simple.  With water boiled on the fire, I walked to the pond with tea in hand to observe the evening fishing taking place.  It was here I met a very kind balding portly woman who had the grammar skills of a 50-gallon trash can.  My favorite was, "...well Smoke, that's why me had I get you my's camera."  I don't know exactly what that means but I assumed "Smoke" was her articulate husband on the other side of the lake by the nod he threw my way.  After wishing them luck with their fishing exploits (which didn't say much since every cast resulted in a 9" fish stuck to their line), I returned to my sanctuary in the woods for some reading and a nap.

12 Hours Ago:  At 4:45AM, I awoke to the first morning of blue skies on the trip.  This lifted my spirits so handsomely that I walked the quarter mile to the overlook and took in the sunrise while accepting the mid-30 degree temperature.  Cold but dry and pleased with the sunrise, I re-immersed myself in the sleeping bag for a few more hours of shuteye.

9 Hours Ago:  I packed the car for the first time with a completely dry tent and gear without eating breakfast.  My plan was to get a few miles underfoot then stop, eat, drive a little more, stop again, and run for the first time a 5 days.   Leaving the overlook, my drive descended quite quickly as the road did its best to cling to the rocky cliff.  Occasionally, the cliff decided to discard a few basketball-sized rocks upon the asphalt, but I got out safely. 

At one point, however, a group of honest to god cowboys were leading their herd of cattle directly up the road and right into my line of travel.  I pulled off to the side (which doesn't say much since there was not side of the road) and let the lumbering  bovines engulf the car as the drovers called "cattle move up! Herd up!"  Cow's don't speak English to my knowledge, but they did abide and I was able to continue on my way.

5 Hours Ago:  I opted to detour 30 miles north and checked out the Hells Canyon Dam, requiring me to drive an enjoyable section of road along the Snake River in Idaho.  The section of the canyon that actually housed the Snake River was amazing and I did my best to watch the road while rubbernecking and snapping pictures.  At the dam, I had a short breakfast of cereal, then drove a mile north to the end of the road where I took up the Hells Canyon Creek Trail for my first run in a while.  The trail was rocky, had shitty footing, and I may or may not have jumped over a snake while plodding along.  The thought of a visit by a snake's front teeth brought me to turn around and finish my short run on the road.

4 Hours Ago:  NO TENTS ON GRASS read the sign where I decided to take a short lunch and bathe in the Snake River.  I was confused but moved past the regulation to suds up and wash off the previous 5 days' filth.  The Snake River looked to be still, but after diving in I found myself a few yards downstream of my entry point and slowly continuing away.  Without panic I returned to the dock cleaner than expected and refreshed from the dip.  A quick lunch of veggies and hummus closed out my visit and I got back on the road to Baker City.

1 Hour Ago:  I started entering this log at the Baker City Library after driving a few hours through some desolate but pretty country.  No trees, just mounds of desert-esque prairie with snow-capped peaks for a background.  The library in Baker is very nice and now I'm going to top of this post with a good bye as I hit the road for the John Day Fossil Beds towards the west.  I don't know if I'll make it there tonight, so I may find myself sleeping in an field, but that's the reason why I choose to travel without a plan. 

No plan means I miss nothing and everything is an adventure. No regrets, this trip is starting to turn itself around.

Wagon Miles: 301,001 to 301,264